
July, 23 2010 - A stinky story
I would love to give a history lesson on the piece, but am afraid I would lose our readers, although I find the piece fascinating and it’s history tragic.
I feel such gratitude at being able to see it before it is gone forever, because that is what time and the atmosphere will finally do to it. But, if we seal it up, if we prevent it from being seen, what would be the purpose of it’s existence? A catch 22???
The work began to deteriorate almost immediately after it’s completion, and bungled attempts at restoration and war and vandalism further damaged it.
It is a huge piece of artwork. I knew it was big, but was surprised and thrilled to see just how big. It measures 15 ft × 29 ft and covers the back wall of the dining hall at the monastery of Santa Maria delle Grazie. It took 3 years for Leonardo to complete the work, but he did not work on it continuously. In the 19th century, a manuscript written by Da Vinci was found with the order and names of each apostle; before this only Judas, Peter, John and Jesus were positively identified.
The painting contains several references to the number 3, which represents the Christian belief in the Holy Trinity. The Apostles are seated in groupings of three; there are three windows behind Jesus; and the shape of Jesus' figure resembles a triangle. There may have been other references that have since been lost as the painting deteriorated.
Two early copies of The Last Supper are known to exist, presumably the work of Leonardo's assistant. The copies are almost the size of the original, and have survived with a wealth of original detail still intact, so we know what the original would have looked like if deterioration hadn’t taken place.
As a believer in Christ, I can not begin to tell you how moving the painting was for me. They were thoughtful enough to provide - in almost chapel form - benches for contemplation and reflection. 15 minutes was not enough time for me, but time enough to contemplate the final days of Christ's life and to give silent thanks for his radical yet simple teachings that changed mankind forever. What a beautiful world it would be if we could all live by those teachings.
July 22, 2010 - Milan
What a different city than we have seen thus far. Each city has had it's own flavor, but Milan is really different. Ancient meets modern. It reminds me a bit of NYC, just not so busy. I have enjoyed all of the cities we have visited and could live in each of them for a limited time, but Milan is the first city that I could make a permanent residence in. Of course the fact that it is one of the shopping meccas of the world and IS the fashion capitol of the world certainly makes it more appealing to ME!!! The Galleria near the Duomo is fantastic. Next time I come I'll need thousands of dollars just for shopping.
Our hotel is essentially an efficiency hotel. No extras. Just the basics. The least of the hotels so far, but it is clean and has a friendly and helpful staff. I wouldn't choose to stay here again though.
We decided due to time constraints, that we would try to see de Carlini tomorrow before our reservation for The Last Supper. Chris called them directly and got directions - sounds like the adventure I was hoping for.
Today, we went to the Piazza del Duomo and looked at the ENORMOUS cathedral with it's umpteen spires. It is the 2nd largest cathedral in the world. 40,000 people can fit comfortably inside. The tallest spire is 109 meters high or 358 ft, and you can do a breathtaking roof walk - which we did - WOW!!! The roof climb provides a unique and memorable opportunity to walk h high on the roofs of the huge Gothic cathedral. The views are magnificent and the opportunity to see the pinnacles and sculptures close up along the way is worth the climb alone.
I'll let Mark Twain describe it for you...
What a wonder it is! So grand, so solemn, so vast! And yet so delicate, so airy, so graceful! A very world of solid weight, and yet it seems ...a delusion of frostwork that might vanish with a breath!...
The central one of its five great doors is bordered with a bas-relief of birds and fruits and beasts and insects, which have been so ingeniously carved out of the marble that they seem like living creatures-- and the figures are so numerous and the design so complex, that one might study it a week without exhausting its interest...everywhere that a niche or a perch can be found about the enormous building, from summit to base, there is a marble statue, and every statue is a study in itself...
Away above, on the lofty roof, rank on rank of carved and fretted spires spring high in the air, and through their rich tracery one sees the sky beyond. ...(Up on) the roof...springing from its broad marble flagstones, were the long files of spires, looking very tall close at hand, but diminishing in the distance...We could see, now, that the statue on the top of each was the size of a large man, though they all looked like dolls from the street...
Dinner at a great little place at the hoteliers recommendation. Much more contemporary than any place we have eaten yet. Not traditional at all. Yummy, fresh food. The proprietress looked like Donnatella Versace and was a delight!!!
July 21, 2010 - Trevi
The Trevi Fountain stands 85 feet high and 65 feet wide. It is the largest Baroque fountain in the city of Rome. The fountain at the junction of three roads (tre vie) marks the end point of the "modern" Acqua Vergine, the revived Aqua Virgo, one of the ancient aqueducts that supplied water to ancient Rome.
In 19 BC, supposedly with the help of a virgin, Roman technicians located a source of pure water 8 miles from the city. The scene is presented on the present fountain's facade. The aqueduct was 14 miles long and ended into the Baths of Agrippa. It served Rome for more than four hundred years. A traditional legend holds that if visitors throw a coin into the fountain, they are ensured a return to Rome. Current interpretation is that two coins will lead to a new romance and three will ensure either a marriage or divorce. Another version of this legend is that it is lucky to throw three coins with one's right hand over one's left shoulder into the Trevi Fountain. That is what we each did.
An estimated 3,000 euros are thrown into the fountain each day.The money has been used to subsidize a supermarket for Rome's needy. People regularly attempt to steal coins from the fountain.The Trevi fountain is featured in Federico Fellini's film La Dolce Vita starring Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni. The fountain was turned off and draped in black in honor of Mastroianni after the actor's death in 1996. We watched a guy propose to his girlfriend in front of the fountain. The place is crawling with lovers. Part of the fountain is replicated at the Italy Pavilion at Epcot in Disney World.
Speaking of Disney... Izzy feels that most of the people visiting the sites in Italy are only there to check it off their vacation list - "Check, got that photo. Check, got me in front of that famous thing. Check, here's me with Cinderella. Check, here's me with the Venus de Milo," and that most people have no idea what they are even looking at let alone the level of artistry in what they are witnessing. She was so disappointed in the amount of garbage and trash that was strewn around the fountain; the level of disrespect, the lack of reverence - it made her cry. Sooooooo, being the sometimes smart mother that I can be...
I woke Izzy up early before we left for our Rome tour. The fountain was completely abandoned. Not a soul in site except security. The entire area had been cleaned up and was awaiting the next disrespectful crowd, but for a few moments we had it to ourselves and it was lovely. We took photos and just sat and wondered at the awesomeness that is the Trevi Fountain. What a special memory with a supremely special girl.